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Format: Paperback. Author Anne Hollander is an art historian who chooses to view dress as art, not as specifically symbolic of socio-political circumstances.

I found this a welcome limitation. Although the creation of fashion years ago was, indeed, the result of an extraordinary change in the self-images of Western humans, there is more than enough fascinating and revealing material to be covered in discussing fashion in its own right. Hollander asserts that male fashion has always been the avant-garde, with women's fashion only recently having caught up. And she focuses particularly on the evolution of the tailored suit, that neo-classic staple of truly modern dress that appeared in its current form about 2 centuries ago.

The author then notes the divergence, if not actually schism, that occurred during the 17th century with the formation of the first professional dressmakers guild. Then, for the first time, women designed and constructed women's clothes and male tailors made men's, creating a difference in the way clothes were conceived and made that would take years to change and whose effects last into our own time.

As the 19th century approaches, the book temporarily abandons discussion of female fashion to concentrate on the genesis of the modern male suit, the quintessence of Modern Fashion. The suit is described and lauded from its neo-classicist roots to its only slightly altered contemporary form.

Eventually, we pick up the progression of women's fashion again, from the first male "fashion designers" for women in midth century Paris, to the lateth and earlyth century, when women's fashion finally became modern, on to the throwback years of the s, with its conformity and frivolity.

The second half of the 20th century sees men's and women's fashion become thoroughly modern, converging and borrowing from one another, including the universal adoption of jeans and t-shirts that were previously men's work clothes and undergarments. The last section of "Sex and Suits" offers an interesting essay on how and why contemporary people choose to dress as they do. Anne Hollander sees fashion, itself, as a good thing with great personal and social implications, but never calls any particular fashion either good or bad.

She explains what the fashion was and why. Her prose is literate and packed with detail. The book is very informative about western fashion, as constrasted to traditional forms of dress, such as the sari or chador. It's mainly about how the suit evolved. In the process, it explains a great deal about fashion, why fashion changes, why fashion is not linked to social and political changes as we so often imagine, and why it means so much to us.

Whether we like it or not, Hollander points out we all dress according to fashion we're not still wearing doublets, after ll and what we wear gives information about us. She examines why the man's suit, which began in the late s, has lasted for so long, why it has satisfied so many in all cultures, though it began in the west.

She examines the tradition by which the suit and by extension all male clothing has been regarded as serious, while women's fashion has been regarded as silly and frivolous. She points out that to look good in so many situations, a man puts on a suit and is transformed into something respectable and also something sexy. On the other hand, a woman has many more choices, and many more chances of going wrong in her selections. The book is fascinating. It is not a light read, however.

Her sentences are beautiful and complicated and have to read with attention. I can't read them and watch TV at the same time. It would seem that we would have moved farther along in our world of fashion for men than the tradition business suit. As Hollander notes, "the foundation remained the Classical body and the relaxed but authoritative contrapposto of the Classical pose, with weight on one foot and an easily turning head.

The small details move back and forth but the standard suit fair stays the same. Now the next time I dress up for a formal occasion in stuffy suit I know it is a classic look from the ages and I am carrying on a well worn tradition. And that for a reason that I, at least, found intriguingly counterintutive but persuasive: the suit is an aesthetically superior form of clothing.

Men's dress is the long term driver of Western clothing, not women's dress and even less what Hollander calls women's "Fashion. See all 9 customer reviews. Write a customer review. There's a problem loading this menu right now.